A range of options for high-end stoves

So you’ve always wanted a professional stove. Why not?

There’s no crowding pots and pans, the burners get really hot when you need it and can go as low as 130 degrees when you don’t. Imagine actually searing a steak or some chicken for a casserole and not have the food just sitting there like big lumps of cold meat while you wait for the pan to actually pretend to sizzle. Or waiting for a big pasta pot to boil. Just so you know, in restaurants, when they put something into the water to boil, it actually keeps boiling instead of cooling down.

How does that happen? Easy; it’s all about power.

Power you’ll have to get used to with a commercial or professional grade range. These are the Rolls-Royces of stoves. The heat is more even, more controllable and yes, more powerful when called upon. The tops are wider and smoother and easier to clean. The ovens are caverns of highly regulated warmth with infrared broilers. This is the big time.

Commercial or professional?

I know we can all look on the Internet and find amazing prices for commercial stoves at prices almost anyone can afford for five feet of heavy iron burners and integrated salamander griddles, but these are “commercial” ranges. Commercial ranges have drawbacks that are substantial. Most importantly then have a lot less insulation and need at least six inches of space between the unit and anything else nearby. They require fireproof surfaces all around them and bigger gas supply lines. Because they are “commercial” grade, the building inspector would also require a commercial fire suppression system, but don’t worry, before you get that far, they will turn you down at the local town office. Most towns don’t allow commercial ranges in a residence, period. But still, you’re not running a restaurant, are you? Churning out 60 to 100 meals every day is not for you. You’re interested in quality, not quantity.

The professional range

Still sporting cavernous ovens and a number of generous burners are the “professional- grade” appliances. These have some important big advantages, as well as important big prices. Yes, we are in the once in a lifetime expense category but we can also expect these appliances to last an entire lifetime. That’s part of what we are buying — confidence, longevity and quality. We’re investing in better tools just like any decent craftsman would. We could make a decent matzo ball soup with a candle and an old dog food can, but would we want to? This is our cooking station in the kitchen, our main tool for the production of sumptuous meals. Are we not worth the best? Isn’t our family?

Choices

In choosing our new range, I found it very tempting to gaze with wonder and delight at the mammoth 60” models. I worked in a restaurant in a much earlier life and this was my trusty companion (when I wasn’t washing dishes). However, I like the 48-inch models as well. Having two cavernous ovens just might be overkill. I like the smaller side oven because it makes me think of casseroles, steaming dishes of potatoes au gratin and sweet potato/apple crumbles. Larger ovens can be, and usually are, convection ovens the smaller ones are usually not. The big choice in ranges is all-gas or duel fuel (electric ovens). If you want self-cleaning, then you have to go electric in professional ranges. I’m not big on self-cleaning ovens, the cycle takes a long time, produces vast amounts of heat and worries me to have something that hot in my home for a great length of time. They are convenient though.

What I really like is long stretches of smooth iron grates, both on the heat and far from it. An indestructible, fully controlled surface perfect for boiling huge pots of water while parking a crispy delicious Beef Wellington fresh from the oven. The burners are more powerful, some up to 25,000 BTU. Compare that to the paltry 5,000 BTU burners on standard stoves that may feature one 12,000 BTU “monster.” But the professional lines always feature a “simmer” burner that is especially good for low and slow cooking. The good ones have a wide flame surface that burns very, very low and systems that will re-light them if they go out for some reason. Professional systems come in many burner configurations, so that’s something to think about. How many big burners do you need and how many slow ones? Where would you like them placed? Do you want a griddle or a charbroiler built into the top, or a combination griddle/ broiler? Think of tuna melts where the cheese explodes over the surface flowing down into every nook and cranny.

An important thought here is the choice between sealed and unsealed burners. I favor unsealed because they are hotter and I feel they are easier to keep clean. Sealed burners are pretty but also require you to reach in and scrub down among the burners. Big spills can drown a burner so you’ll have to clean the jets as well. Open burners let spills drop through on to a drip tray which can be easily scrubbed in the sink or thrown in the dish washer.

Last word

This is an investment, not a frivolous expense. Whether you end up with Wolf, Viking, American, Bertazzoni, Bluestar or some other brand, do the same investigation you would with any other investment. This is a personal choice. Go to the showrooms, touch, feel, open the ovens and if you can, catch a vendor demonstration. Most high-end range makers will have event where you can try out these beauties. For us, I’m pretty sure we are going with Blue Star. I like the burners and their configurations, the big smooth grates and the endless color choices. Although the prices are competitive, Blue Stars are all handmade to order in their Pennsylvania factory. We’ll have to wait a little longer to get one, but this range should keep us happily cooking away for years.

Are you are thinking about getting a high-end range, or do you love the one that you have? Email EAbreu@GannettNJ.com for a future story.

Prentiss Gray’s weekly column will provide tips and advice on how to make your life better in Morris County. Read “Domestitech” every Thursday in The Good Life.